Fish and chips is Britain’s edible institution: flaky white fish inside a shattering amber batter, thick chips that are crisp outside and fluffy within, all doused in malt vinegar. The chippy does it with a century of muscle memory, but two honest techniques, cold beer batter and twice-cooked chips, get you there at home.
The components
- Fish: thick fillets of cod or haddock, patted very dry
- Batter: flour, a little cornflour for crispness, cold beer and a pinch of baking powder
- Chips: floury potatoes like Maris Piper, cut thick
- Sides: mushy peas, tartar sauce, malt vinegar and lemon
The double-fry chips
- First fry at 130°C until soft and pale, about eight minutes: drain and rest.
- Second fry at 190°C until golden and crisp, three minutes.
- Salt immediately and generously.
The batter rules
The beer must be cold and the batter made at the last second: the bubbles and the temperature shock are what create the lacy, glassy crust. Dust the fish in flour first so the batter grips, lower it into 180°C oil holding one end so it does not stick to the basket, and fry to deep gold, six to eight minutes. The crust should audibly crack under a fork.
The full chippy ritual
Mushy peas (marrowfat peas simmered soft with butter and mint), proper tartar sauce with capers and gherkins, and an unreasonable amount of malt vinegar complete the experience. Eat it fast, ideally slightly too hot, optionally out of paper: some traditions exist because they are correct.
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